Check back later, but don’t forget to go back and check out the first article. The next tutorial should be quick one as all that’s left to paint are the goggles and high light the boots. To add some contrast and depth, I mix some Vallejo Air Color Aluminum into the Tin Bitz and paint the top portion of the nozzle. The nozzle is painted with a coat of Citadel Tin Bitz. I used Vallejo Air Color Aluminum for the flamer handle and pilot light. The final step is to add color to the flamer nozzle and handle. The main body of the gun remains a black metal color as does some other details on the model. You’ll also notice in this picture that metallic parts get a coat of Vallejo Air Color Black Metal.Īt this point, I make a mixture of Vallejo Game Color Gun Metal and Vallejo Air Color Black Metal and paint the parts that I want a stronger metallic look with it. If you go to extreme in one direction or the other, you can take the base color mixed with glaze medium and blend it together. I don’t use exact ratios, but instead, I just eyeball it. To help blend it into the other colors, I mix in glaze medium. The Stone Grey helps to lighten the color softly with out it becoming too chalky or pastel looking, which using White could do. I mix the base colors, Yellow Green and Red Leather, with Vallejo Model Color Stone Grey. I now begin to highlight the armor and leather objects.

This will get highlighted and then washed with a brown wash to give it a worn leather look. Next, I go in a paint the webbing and leather objects with Vallejo Model Color Red Leather. Once it’s highlighted with another color, a black wash will shade the recess into a black color giving the illusion that the object is a black color. German Grey works better as it appears to be almost black. You can’t shade black, and it has a tendency to obscure detail. I rarely paint anything pure black anymore. The armor gets a coat of Vallejo Model Color Yellow Green, and all the parts that are supposed to be black or going to be metallic are painted with Vallejo Model Color German Grey. I’m just blocking in the colors at this point. Many layers of ablative and impact absorbent material go into making each suit, enough to deflect or negate most low-level attacks such as small arms, shrapnel, and proximity blasts. I choose to paint the body armor a solid color to help contrast it from the camouflaged fatigues. It is used as standard issue body armour for the countless millions of Imperial Guardsmen and Planetary Defence Force members across the galaxy. I needed a color that would work well with the camouflage scheme that I gave them, but contrast enough so that the model and details would not be lost. The process of painting the body armor for my guys is a bit different. The process is not difficult, and if you’re a seasoned guard player, you probably have your own method that works nicely. Well, today, I’m going to continue the process and show you how I painted the armor.

The other day I posted an article on How to Paint Imperial Guard Infantry Camouflage.

Warhammer 40k imperial guard armor